Reflections on the Allagash Wilderness Waterway

There’s something both thrilling and humbling about setting out on a multi-day canoe trip into the Maine wilderness. The Allagash River had long been on my adventure list, and finally, we made it happen—a five-day, five-night journey from Churchill Dam to Allagash Village, covering 64 miles of stunning wilderness, quiet waters, and a few unexpected challenges.

Day 0 - Entering the Allagash

Arriving at Churchill Dam, the stillness of the Allagash Wilderness wrapped around us. Light rain pattered down as we set up camp near the river, battling the wind to start a fire. Oakley, our ever-curious dog, wasted no time exploring, darting through the brush in hot pursuit of hares. As night fell, we filled up on sausage and potatoes, grateful to finally be here.

Day 1 - Chase Rapids to Umsaskis Lake

The rain lingered, making for dramatic skies as we launched our boats. Chase Rapids provided an exciting start, and we paid Ranger Justin a well-worth-it $10 to shuttle our gear, lightening the load for the roughest stretch. The reward? Our first glimpse of clear blue Allagash skies. We spotted a mother merganser with a parade of ducklings and I landed a small brook trout on a dry fly. Later, a sudden rain squall forced us to hug the shore near an old ranger station site before crossing to our campsite at The Ledges. The skies cleared just in time for a fiery sunset, and we dined on homemade garlic cheese bread and teriyaki chicken. By the campfire, we read aloud from Death on Katahdin, a chilling tale about the time Baxter State Park Ranger Ralph Heath heroically perished trying to rescue a hiker stranded on a cliff above Chimney Pond in a freak blizzard in October 1963.

Day 2 - Umsaskis Lake to Cunliffe Island

We woke to a flawless, glassy lake and a deer grazing at the water’s edge. The morning’s peace was interrupted when Nolen fell ill, forcing us to shuffle gear and tow his canoe through seven grueling miles of headwind. At Long Lake Dam, I took a risk, running both canoes and gear over the dam despite recommendations otherwise. The route was deceptive and my stern bottomed out on the old dam, but otherwise it was a smooth effort. Thankfully, Nolen was improving and felt well enough to consume Chicken Caesar wraps at camp.

Cunliffe Island became our favorite campsite of the trip, nestled among evergreens with a scenic walk to the outhouse—just bring your own TP! Oakley spent the entire evening waging war against taunting red squirrels, while Nolen and I reeled in fallfish on the fly rod. Dinner was a feast: steak, spicy ramen, fresh cucumbers, and warm chocolate chip cookies baked in the reflector oven. As we drifted to sleep, bullfrogs serenaded the night.

Day 3 - Cunliffe Island to Bass Brook

A hearty breakfast of pre-made breakfast burritos fueled us for the day ahead. Wildlife was abundant—Canada geese, a swimming mink, and bald eagles that seemed to guide our way downriver. At the bridge before the pond, we saw the only other people that day—two passing logging trucks that answered our request for a friendly honk.

The approach to Round Pond was breathtaking, with towering elms and lily pads dotting the glassy water. We stopped at Inlet Campsite for a quick leg stretch and discovered a trickling cold spring, perfect for refilling our bottles. The afternoon heat begged for a cool-down, so we took a dip in the rapids below Round Pond before pushing on to Bass Brook. There, dehydrated meals and another batch of fresh-baked cookies marked the end of a perfect day.

Day 4 - Bass Brook to Big Brook

Cinnamon buns in the reflector oven? Yes, please. After an early start, we floated and fished our way to Michaud Farm, where we checked in with Ranger Dalton before tackling the portage at Allagash Falls. Hauling gear a third of a mile in three trips each was grueling, but the beauty of the falls made it worthwhile. We broke for lunch at the Falls Bank campsite before making our way to Big Brook North, our final campsite. The muddy bank wasn’t ideal, but the newly built picnic table and a pre-cut woodpile were welcome surprises. As clouds gathered, signaling rain to come, we capped off the night with pancakes over the fire and one last swim in the river.

Day 5 - Big Brook to Allagash Village

Rain woke us early and stayed with us most of the morning, but we packed up efficiently and pushed off. A deer watched us from the riverbank as we paddled through steady rain, past the sign marking the end of the Allagash Wilderness Waterway. Civilization remained elusive for another hour until, finally, we reached our takeout at White Birch Landing. A moment of nervous laughter passed between us as we hoped our truck, shuttled by Norm from Pelletier’s, would be waiting. Sure enough, there it was.

Reflections on the Allagash

Was it fun? Was it worth the effort? Absolutely. The Allagash is more than just a river; it’s a journey through time, a test of endurance, and a chance to reconnect—with nature, with family, and with ourselves. We faced sickness, exhaustion, and relentless weather, but we also found beauty, adventure, and a deep sense of accomplishment. The Allagash has been paddled for over 10,000 years, and we were merely the latest to ride its current northward.

I left feeling privileged to be part of this ongoing story—one of wilderness, water, and resilience.

For video of our trip visit River Metimbers on YouTube:

Allagash Wilderness Waterway Photo Gallery